Chefs at Work

An Interview with Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC

An Interview with Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC

Cherokee Town & Country Club

by David Meyers

Kevin Walker image

Kevin – Cherokee Town & Country Club recently completed a $28 million clubhouse renovation of its Town Club including significant improvements in member dining areas and a major main kitchen renovation supporting these improvements.  Walk us through your involvement in the process – from conceptual development of kitchen and dining areas, through construction, interacting with the construction trades to pre-opening duties?

– I was involved throughout the entire process, an absolute must if your want to be assured of a successful kitchen operation upon reopening to membership!  Early on, I basically drew my vision for the new kitchen on paper and handed it over to our kitchen designers (SDI Consulting) who converted my sketch and equipment specifications into a plan.  From there plans were modified and tweaked as building issues surfaced.  Anyone who has been through a renovation knows, the best laid plans are subject to change as priorities evolve and city building departments gets involved assuring code and safety issues are fulfilled.

We immediately incurred a major stumbling block when the city requiring a 3-hour firewall to be installed the length of the building merging the addition with the existing structure.  This was a logical solution avoiding the need to install a sprinkler system throughout the original structure which would have significantly altered its stunning interior architecture, an option membership would have had issues with.  This change, however, dramatically affected the original kitchen.

Once regrouped, the main level kitchen was redesigned within its previous space however its function and form are greatly different.  The previous main line handled two dining rooms – fine dining and a grille plus any off the menu functions (OFM) – now is “right-sized” completely focused on the Williams’ Room, our Fine Dining restaurant.  This has proven to be the biggest and very favorable change.  We are capable of producing a truly fine dining experience and it is most successful.  We are averaging 40 -50 covers nightly which in today’s club market is wonderful.  We also incorporated the Pastry Shop as part of the main kitchen function, improving production and efficiencies while connecting the teams.

Our casual or terrace level kitchen was relocated from the other end of the building and is now closely situated to the main kitchen, connected both by stairwell and elevator.  In its former location, the kitchen was a mere 700 sq ft serving over 70,000 covers annually.  Now it is 2800 sq ft, services three dining outlets, all OFM functions and weather permitting outside terrace dining.  We now have the ability to seat close to 300 people at once!  This new configuration has enabled us to effectively execute family and adult casual dining concurrently, receiving rave review by membership.

One of the biggest kitchen conceptual changes in the casual areas was the addition of the “Sandwich Grill Station.” This was instituted to take pressure off of the grill and sauté stations so they could concentrate on the entrees on the menu.  The sandwich grill handles all the hot sandwiches, burgers, kids and fried foods.  Now when an order comes in for a Cobb Salad and Cheeseburger, it can be pushed ahead and does not interfere with the rest of production going on.

If you build it correctly, prepare for an initial wave of business which is sustainable if you build it right.  Since opening on Thanksgiving our numbers have been through the roof, up 75% in January from prior year and 40% in February.

Now that the club has successfully reopened, what is your pace of business & how have you evolved menu selection maximizing membership satisfaction while meeting the demands of addition business?

– We are constantly learning how the membership wants to use the new facilities.  Our studies leading into the renovation were very helpful in designing and equipping the kitchens.  We will experience another learning curve when the Outside Terrace Dining opens, but overall the entire staff, both cooks and service teams have settled in nicely and are working very closely to make certain our members are happy through the Cherokee Standards.

With hindsight being 20/20, are there any major steps you would have done differently to further enhanced result?

– One item, two results – the size of the pastry shop and employee break room.   Once the kitchen was made smaller by the firewall, I should have taken away about 3 feet from each to make the main kitchen slightly bigger.  However, as with everything, you figure out how to make it work and we have done just that.

About Sous Vide

Kevin – You have been wildly successful implementing a Sous Vide program well accepted by membership.  Share with us some of the initial logistical challenges including space and equipment requirements, marketing hurdles and steps toward gaining sustained membership interest

– We began our program without any marketing at all – I wanted to make sure it would work and that we would be successful first.  Once it was in place, I basically used word of mouth and server promotions.  Every chance I had to interact with members I would explain the process and how we use it.  Once the membership tries a protein which is sous vide they quickly understand the advantages of the process.  The largest hurdle has been educating the membership on the color of the product.  No longer is a medium rare steak gray on the outer edges working to a red middle but instead a perfect red throughout – from end to end – making the first time they see it seem as if it’s under cooked.

What proteins do you find logical and well received in a la carte applications?

–  We sous vide all our grilled steaks and lamb for ala carte operations.  In addition we also sous vide a fair amount of fish and finish it to order.  Foie gras, shortribs, duck confit, infused oils, turkey breast for sandwiches, tenderloins for carving station, veal cheeks and vegetables, both for ala carte and banquets, are a few of the items we cook using this method with great success.

How has this technical method helped you enhance consistency, speed of services and staff efficiencies? 

–  Outside of the dramatic difference in quality, speed of service has been most affected.  The ability to finish steaks to order makes it so that you are only minutes away from plating instead of 10-15 if the steak was missed.

Finally, have you had any resistance from local health inspectors?

–  There has been no resistance from the health inspectors.  Once the process is thoroughly explained, they get it!

About Master Chef Certification

Kevin – Congratulations again on earning your Master Chef Certification in 2002!  For those aspiring to ultimately earn this designation are there particular bits of advice you can share including what best prepare one’s repertoire for this daunting test?

–  Cook, cook and cook.  You also have to be very open, honest and have the ability to self critique.  Also be able to seek out, listen to and accept positive criticism.  The most important aspect of the environment you work in, is finding one that is supportive of the goal.  Chefs have passed the test from every type of background imaginable – however I would say the one common thread is they all had a environment passionate about learning, committed to excellence and supportive of the process.  It is truly not about the designation as much as it is about the process.

Editors Comments – To Kevin’s final comments, all great culinarians stay close to their inmate skill and passion, Cooking!   And all great cooks, chefs and competitors share their experiences and stay connected through a network of peers, regularly exchanging ideas.  Beyond cooking, in many ways the easiest part of the duty, great Executive Chefs are solid business professionals.  Continue honing your abilities in areas including personnel development, financial management and relationship skills.  These fundamental professional abilities and heightened management sense coupled with a core passion of cooking will keep you and your team at peak performance.

Kevin – Thank you for your thoughtful insight and encouragement.

Posted in Chefs at Work

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