Rolling Rock Club, Ligonier, PA
by David Meyers
Robert – You landed the awesome responsibility of Executive Chef at the most unique Rolling Rock Club in 2005. Tell us bits about club’s unique origin and character, it’s impressive grounds and the cuisine members enjoy under your watch.
– Sure, Rolling Rock club was founded in 1917 in Ligonier, a small rural town 60 miles East of Pittsburgh. The Club has a long rich history that is treasured and safeguarded. The clubhouse sits on approximately 600 acres. We are a sportsman’s club and raise thousands of trout and ringneck pheasants each year. Since my arrival, we raise Angus cattle and hogs for the culinary team on property. The club employs full time horticulturalists to maintain the beauty of the property. The Members call themselves “stewards of the land” and take a vital interest in assuring that conservation practices are being met. Facilities include 29 fully appointed guest rooms, 4 tennis courts, 4 miles of world class ORVIS endorsed trout fly fishing, clay bird shooting, hunting and a pool complex. The club serves breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week, year round, as well as off-premise caterings and in-house parties.
Most successful club chefs would agree, that your members get whatever they want, whenever they want it. One of the challenges for me initially was capturing the nuances of an organization with a long and revered culinary history. The past chefs, Willie Daffinger and Manfred Sanders, retired from their positions after 35+ years of service. The dynamics of the membership continually evolve and it was necessary to incorporate some new ideas and approaches without ‘rocking the boat.’ Immediately I redesigned the menu with a heading that read “Club Traditions” and one that read “Chef’s Selections”. It is crucial for me that the “feel” of the cuisine not change drastically. We preach to the staff that this is the member’s country home and everything we do is to be delivered with poise and grace.
The culinary team has done an outstanding job quickly adapting to new procedures and delivery of our selections. We have introduced Sous vide cooking; we have implemented many new systems and policies as far as the behind the scenes goes, we have restructured the scheduling of the brigade, and have added many new culinary choices such as more seafood selections, ‘lighter’ fresh flavors, more up to date presentations and tastes and a tremendous focus on the ingredients with attention to utilizing as much local products as possible. New direction and offerings are inevitable with change in culinary leadership. This has all been accomplished while successfully retaining the extremely upscale service and quality of all materials. Our members have been delighted.
Immediately post graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, you worked at some remarkable properties before landing a Sous Chef responsibility at The Inn of Little Washington. How did you manage getting an interview, securing a position and how has that experience changed your life?
– Working under Patrick O’Connell revealed that this “career path of mine” is a work in progress, genuine craft and art form. Patrick stressed the importance of the details in everything we touch. He focused great attention on the product and respect for where it came which changed my whole perspective to cooking. He was adamant that his cooks love to be in the kitchen and have a real connection to the food and process of cooking. Sometimes I sense my crew thinks I’m nuts when I challenge them to focus their energies and become the mushrooms that they are sautéing. To this day I think of my experience at The Inn daily, and smile. I love sharing stories to my staff.
How did I get an interview? Well, I had always read about the Inn, followed its success and dreamed of the possibilities of getting into a place of that caliber. A CIA fellow called me one day excited that he just had a try out at The Inn and told me to send in my resume as the Inn was hiring. So reluctantly, I sent in my resume, did a follow up call then secured a cooking tryout. For two days I worked at The Inn trying out for a position.
While there I had to cook eggs sunny-side up for Patrick O’ Connell. I was a nervous wreck. I was so excited to have worked those two days it didn’t matter if I got the job, but it did. I told Chef O’ Connell that I would work for free if required. I was offered the position for slightly greater than free; what an invaluable experience it proved to be! I then immersed myself in work and becoming the best I could be. Years later as the executive sous chef helped Patrick move into his world famous, unbelievable, renovated, magical kitchen. I will never forget it.
How has your past experiences shaped the successful chef you have become?
– Since leaving the Inn I decided to peruse life in the club arena. It seemed as though it would be more suitable for family life and for the most part it is. I have utilized the knowledge gained at the Inn to forge a respectful reputation in the club culinary community, developing top notch culinary programs supported by a dedicated staff, eager to learn. Constantly I challenge day-to-day kitchen workings, plating details, uphold a positive disposition, foster a mentoring environment and an attitude of never being fully satisfied with one’s work are keys that drive my success. As many top chefs know, it is not simply cooking that makes one a successful chef – rather it’s creating a dynamic environment and culinary programs that sustain passion & greatness! Ongoing self-evaluation, always being true to self, staff, process and the craft must be constant. The only way to evolve is by embracing challenges and change that makes you grow! One cannot avoid it if they want to be recognized amongst the best in the field.
Also, growing up in rural upstate New York and becoming an Eagle Scout contributed greatly shaping my character. Being true to self is key! I’m also attribute much of my success to my supporting wife Sharon who has packed up and moved our household, and believing in my pursuits and career. We have three wonderful sons that she so positively influenced while I devoted time to my kitchens. With her guidance I have developed a better balance, more regularly finding time to attend church with family, family dinners, game night etc. It’s imperative to maintain family and outside interests beyond our culinary duties as we as chefs often have difficulty achieving. It’s simply healthy. The Turn & Burn approach serves no lasting mutual benefit.
No doubt it was special being acknowledged by the President of the United States office to interview for the White House Executive Chef position. Share with us your journey being interviewed for this very special culinary position.
– What a career highlight and exciting time for me and my family. I had learned of Chef Schieb’s departure from the White House kitchen and wondered who might be the next appointment. The search went on for some time with no news of a new chef. Then I read about the White House courting Patrick O’Connell for the position but he declined an interview. So I called Patrick, we chatted and he instructed me how to submit my interest in the position. With limited expectation, I sent in my information packet assuming a refusal letter on White House stationary would follow, a memento to show my grandchildren that I applied at the nation’s capital.
Instead I received a phone call from the Chief Usher and Mrs. Bush’s social secretary informing me of their interest in my candidacy. I participated in many phone interviews, a series of background checks and then flew to Washington for an in-person interview at the White House. What an honor it was and a truly thrilling experience.
Shortly after that I was in the process of coordinating the cooking interview scheduled when the announcement was made appointing the internal candidate Chef Comerford. I was both relieved and disappointed. It is still so personally gratifying being recognized as one of the final 6 candidates for this coveted responsibility. As consolation offering, the White House staff invited my wife, my three sons and me for a deep, behind the scenes tour of the White House. That was a special trip that we will reflect upon for a lifetime. The kids were able to play with The First Family’s dogs in the Rose garden……much better than my expected consolation letter.